Converting a Hiace from a empty cargo van into a properly functional space—whether that’s a camper, mobile workshop, or delivery vehicle—requires careful planning and the right equipment. I’ve seen some really impressive hiace fitout accessories that completely change how usable these vans become. The difference between a basic conversion and a professional one usually comes down to choosing accessories that actually make sense for your specific use case. You’re not just throwing stuff in the back and hoping it works. You’re creating a space that needs to function efficiently, sometimes for hours at a time, and the accessories you choose determine whether that space is frustrating or genuinely useful.
Power Systems That Keep You Running
First thing you need to sort out—power. Unless you’re planning to only use your Hiace while the engine’s running, you need a dual battery setup or a lithium power station. I went with a 100Ah lithium battery for my own build, and honestly, it’s been perfect. It weighs maybe a quarter of what a comparable lead-acid battery would weigh, and it charges way faster.
For charging, a 200W solar panel on the roof keeps things topped up if you’re parked during the day. On cloudy days or if you’re using a lot of power, a DC-DC charger pulls from the alternator while you drive. The combination means you rarely run out of juice unless you’re parked for days without driving, which doesn’t happen often in real-world use.
Inverters are essential if you need to run anything that plugs into regular wall outlets. A 1000W pure sine wave inverter handles laptops, phone chargers, small tools, and even a microwave if you keep cook times short. Modified sine wave inverters are cheaper but they can damage some electronics, so it’s worth spending the extra $100-150 for pure sine wave.
I also added a 12V distribution panel with circuit breakers and USB charging ports. It’s just cleaner and safer than having wires running everywhere with random inline fuses. Plus you can label each circuit—lights, fridge, water pump, whatever—so troubleshooting is actually possible.
Lighting Solutions for Different Needs
Factory cargo lights in a Hiace are basically useless. One dim bulb in the ceiling that barely lights up half the space. LED strip lights changed everything for van conversions. You can get 12V LED strips that put out serious brightness while drawing minimal power—like 5 watts for a 1-meter strip that’s brighter than a 40W incandescent bulb.
I installed warm white (3000K) strips along the ceiling edges for general lighting, and then added some cool white (6000K) task lights over the work area. The color temperature thing matters more than you’d think. Warm white is better for evenings because it doesn’t mess with your sleep patterns, while cool white is better for detailed work because you see colors more accurately.
Motion-activated lights are clutch for cargo areas. They turn on when you open the doors, so you’re not fumbling for switches while carrying stuff. They auto-shutoff after a few minutes to prevent battery drain.
And dimmer switches—seriously, install dimmer switches. Sometimes you want full brightness, sometimes you just need a little ambient light. Having that control makes the space way more comfortable.
Ventilation and Temperature Management
This is where a lot of people mess up. They build out their Hiace all nice, then realize it’s a metal box that turns into an oven in summer. Roof vents are non-negotiable if you’re spending any real time in the van. I have a MaxxAir fan that pulls hot air out, and it makes probably a 15-20 degree difference on hot days.
The fan has a rain sensor, so it automatically closes if it starts raining, which is nice because I definitely would’ve forgotten to close it manually and ended up with a soaked interior. It draws about 3 amps on high speed, so it doesn’t kill your battery even if you run it all night.
For windows, adding mesh screens lets you keep windows cracked for cross-ventilation without letting bugs in. Seems obvious, but a lot of van conversions skip this and then you’re choosing between being hot or being eaten by mosquitoes.
Insulation isn’t exactly an accessory, but insulated window covers are. They’re basically padded panels that stick to your windows with magnets or reflective material. They prevent heat transfer and also give you privacy. During winter, they genuinely help keep the van warmer overnight.
Storage and Organization Systems
Okay, so you’ve got your power sorted, lighting is good, ventilation works—now how do you actually organize everything? Overhead cabinets are a obvious choice, but make sure they’re mounted securely. I used heavy-duty L-brackets bolted through the van’s metal ribs, not just screwed into the thin wall panels.
The cabinets themselves should have latches that keep doors closed during driving. I learned this after everything flew open during one hard stop and my stuff went everywhere. Magnetic catches work, but mechanical latches are more reliable.
Under-seat storage is often wasted space in conversions. Building storage boxes that slide under seating platforms gives you tons of room for tools, clothes, whatever. Just make sure there’s still air circulation if you have batteries or electronics down there.
Folding tables are super versatile. I have one mounted to the side wall that folds down when I need a work surface or eating area, then folds flat when not in use. It’s held up by a hinged leg bracket that locks in place—nothing fancy but it’s solid and doesn’t wobble.
For smaller items, fabric pockets mounted to walls or the backs of seats keep things accessible without cluttering surfaces. I have one that holds my phone, flashlight, charging cables, stuff I need to grab quickly. Way better than digging through drawers.
Water Systems for Extended Use
If your fitout involves any kind of camping or long-term use, a water system is worth it. Basic setup is a 20-liter jerry can with a 12V water pump and a small faucet. Total cost is maybe $150 and it means you can wash hands, dishes, whatever without finding a tap.
More elaborate setups include a grey water tank for drainage, but honestly, for most uses, just running a hose to a bucket works fine. You empty it periodically and you’re good.
Portable camping showers that run off 12V are available too, though I haven’t felt the need for one personally. But for people doing multi-day trips, being able to rinse off without finding a campground shower is a big quality of life thing.
